FRANCIGENA STREET IN TUSCIA

Mostly in the beginning of the 2nd millennium, Europe was crossed by a lot pf pilgrims “looking for the lost Blue Motherland”.

It’s known that there are three attractive poles for this walking humanity: Rome, Peter’s and Paul’s place of martyrdom, founders of the ecclesiastic Christian community; the Holy Land, siege of Golgotha, where they looked for the places of the passion of Christ; Santiago of Compostela, maximum point of West Europe, where the Apostle St. James chose to rest in peace.

So Europe was turned into a big connector of streets, roads and ways, all leading to the places of pilgrimage. The access to Rome was assured by the most famous street of that time, the “Francigena” or “Romea” street that, coming from the West Alps and from the Rhine-regions, was crossed by kings, emperors and religious people for at least seven centuries.

The Francigena street, that went from Canterbury to Rome, it’s a historical itinerary, a master road crossed by hundreds of thousands of pilgrims going to Rome.

At that time, the trip wasn’t an easy adventure, it was full of devoutness: the pilgrimage to the Saint places of Christian Religion.

Today we can rebuild this itinerary thanks to a document that Sigerico left us, Archbishop of Canterbury, who wrote in 994, coming back from Rome, the diary of the stops made during the trip. Not by chance, after a millennium, we want to rediscover a street that represented the union and communication among the different cultures and ideas of the different countries of Europe, that today lets its boundaries fall, but already then, by the walks through Francigena street, represented the wish and will to be united.

Nowadays we can recall, in our territories, fragments and memories of those itineraries that found the history of Europe.

Analyzing a part of it, we suggest the way and stops of Tuscia:

From Proceno, post station, to Acquapendente, basic stop for pilgrims, thanks to a precious relicc taken from the Holy Land, today kept in the crypt of the cathedral; Bolsena, remembered for the miracle of Corpus Domini, to Montefiascone, medieval town known for its wine; then Viterbo that, developed thanks to Francigena street, became one of the basic stops of the whole itinerary, rich in hospices, accommodations and historic memories. As Francigena street went through Viterbo, there was the problem of crossing Cimini Mounts, tried, in different seasons, to the right or to the left of Vico lake. On one side they met Ronciglione and the little church of St. Eusebio, on the other we can still recognize parts of the old passage through the chestnut woods close to St Martin to the Cimino Abbey. They went on to Vetralla, where a country street lead to the little church of St. Mary in Frocassi, told by Sigerico, then Capranica, Sutri, Monterosi, finally leaving Cassia street and taking Trionfale street until Rome.

(Source: ufficio turismo Assessorato alla cultura e Amministrazione provinciale di Viterbo)

 PROCENO

The legend tells of a village founded by Porsenna and its ancient origin is shown by Etruscan remains. Inside the village there’s Sforza’s Palace and the medieval Fort with three square towers. Not too far there’s the Parish, of gothic foundation, that keeps a pointed Door and an ogive-shaped arch at the entrance of the presbytery. You should see, also, the church of St. Mary of the Lily, with frescoes from Zuccari’s school, and the church of St. Martin that keeps frescoes of the 4th and of the 5th century.

 ACQUAPENDENTE

Small town at the borders with Tuscany, it’s among the most important commons around Viterbo. Entering you meet the Medieval Tower called Julia de Jacopo which is the Door of the ancient walls, and right in front the Cathedral of St. Sepulchre that Bishop Aldobrandino from Orvieto consecrated in 1149. Very important St. Francis church, previously in gothic style and dedicated to St. Mary, with the bell tower built from a project of Raphael from Prato between 1506 and 1534. Other monuments are The Gregorian Bridge on Paglia river, built for Pope Gregory the 13th will, from a project of the architect Fontana. The reserve of Mount Rufeno stretches for 3000 hectares and it’s two kilometers far from the village. It’s rich in centuries-old woods and it’s populated by many species of animals. Inside the reserve you should visit the Museum of the Flower, natural museum of botanic. Acquapendente is also famous for its Carnival and for the Big Daggers, party dedicated to the throw out of Barbarossa.

NEW ST. LAWRENCE

Village of the 8th century by the crossroad between Cassia and Maremmana streets, on the border of Bolsena lake. Characteristic for its octagonal square where’s the Parish of St Lawrence Martyr that keeps a Byzantine crucifix made of wood from the 13th century. The church of St. Mary of the Assumption rises by the end of the street in front of the parish, and inside you can see the paintings by Father Fedele from St. Biagio. Between St. Lawrence and Bolsena there’s St. John in lake valley’s church, with architecture of the 16th century, projected by Peter Tartarino, architect and student of Albert from Sangallo. In august, during the holidays, there’s the Feast of Gnocchi.

BOLSENA

Famous as a holiday location, it rises on the north-east side of the lake, but over tourism, it’s economy is based on fishing and agriculture. Remembered for the miracle of Corpus Domini happened during a Mass of the priest Peter from Prague in 1263, when, lifting the Host a few drops of blood fell on the altar. Since 1693 they’re kept in St. Christine church wanted from Pope Urban the 4th and in memory of the miracle, in the 11th century they founded the Corpus Domini Holiday. Under the hill close to the Collegiata and the Miracle Chapel, there are the Catacombs, dated beck to the 2nd-3rd century A.D.. The Monaldeschi Castle, built by the Orvietans between the 12th and 14th century, dominates the center of the town while on the square there’s the temple of St. Francis from the gothic ages. On the orvietana street there’s a wall system, 4 kilometers long, coming from the etrurian age and conception (4th century) with many monuments in the insides.

MONTEFIASCONE

On top of a hill, in a panoramic position dominating Bolsena lake, rises Montefiascone Cathedral. Location famous for its wine “East! East! East!” but also for the historic and artistic finds.

Among the most important there’s St. Flaviano church, peculiar Roman building of the 12th century. St. Andrew church keeps a coat of arms and precious capitals. Very important is the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Mercies with the image of the Virgin, probably dated back to the 12th-14th century. More churches are St. Mary of Montedoro and St. Francis.

The Cathedral is a powerful building started in 1519 and ended in the middle of the 17th century by Charles Fontana, who “lifted” the dome.

The fort of the Popes, of Etruscan origin, fortified by the Romans, was siege of Popes and Cardinals. Julius the 2nd in 1506 had some modifications done and turned the fort into an elegant cultural center.

VITERBO

City of high Latium, with a cultural-historic importance, includes in its geographical extension monuments and art works of high interest and keeps in its historic center the original medieval aspect. First example is Alessandri’s Palace that goes back to the first half of the 13th century, with gothic characteristics, and St. Pilgrim church of the 12th century, placed on the small square of the center.

At the medieval neighborhood, close to the Cathedral bridge, you can see the inscription donated to the Pilgrims Hospital by the weds Guidone and Diletta to the Viterban clergy. The Papal Palace is certainly the most interesting monument of the historic center, witness of important events for the history of the city, and rich in unique artistic treasures. That Palace was built by Raniero Gatti, captain of the Population, to welcome the Papal Court running away from Rome for the political strikes of that period.

Other monuments are: Albornoz Fort, at present siege of the National Museum, the Church of St. Mary of Truth with the adjacent Civic Museum, the Church of St. Andrew, St Mary in Gradi.

There are many fountains, among which the most famous is the Big Fountain that gives the name to the square.

Viterbo is also famous for its thermal stations that are dated back to the Etruscan and Roman ages. The most important is Bullicame’s one, famous since ancient times for its therapeutic features and spoken by Dante Alighieri in the Divine Comedy..

St. Rose, patron saint of the city, is on the 2nd of September, celebrated by taking St. Rose’s machine (lightening tower, 30 meters tall, 5 tons heavy) around the streets of the city, carried by about one hundred of porters.

ST. MARTIN AT THE CIMINO

Little village in the surroundings of Cimini Mounts, historically attractive for its peculiar Abbey built by the Cistercians of Pontigny by the end of the 13th century.

This kind of building had great influence on the Viterban medieval architecture and has very “modern” gothic-Cistercian architectural characteristics.

The primary interest of St. Martin at the Cimino is its Village totally renewed according to the urban rules of the 17th century by Marcantonio De’ Rossi for Innocenzo the 10th’s will. Doria Pamphili Palace is also important, restored in 1652 by many artists, including Bernini.

RONCIGLIONE

Close to Vico lake and to Cimini Mounts, it includes a Medieval Village and a part developed between the 1500 and the 1700 with noble buildings.

The ancient church of St. Mary of Providence goes back to the 11th-12th century, and inside the nave you can see a Christ with cherubs and angels of the 1400.

In the village you can see the remains of St. Andrew’s church, including capitals, columns and the bell tower built in 1463 by Galasso.

Three kilometers far from the town rises the church of St. Eusebio, paleo-christian monument built by the Basilian monks, that keeps inscriptions made by the pilgrims crossing that place. The portal is from the 15th century, while the threshold is composed of a roman sarcophagus.

The Roman Door is extremely beautiful, built from a design of Vignola.

The Cathedral is in baroque style and keeps a triptych Gabriele di Francesco from Viterbo dated back to the second half of the 15th century.

VETRALLA

Partly medieval town, it’s stretched between two streams. St Andrew the Apostle’s Cathedral is a building started in 1711 and dedicated in 1721. Inside it there are some precious paintings and a golden-silver reliquary.

The most ancient church is St. Francis’ built on the remains of a construction probably from the 7th century. In the 12th century it was widened and started looking like nowadays. St. Mary in Forcassi’s church was dedicated to Our Most Holy Lady of Annunciation during the Jubilee in 1449, passage of the pilgrims going to Rome.

Peculiar event is the 8th of May in Fogliano’s wood where, in front of St. Angel’s Hermitage, there’s the party of the “tree wedding”, a very ancient ritual bound to the wish of a good harvest.

CAPRANICA

Village placed on a tuff spur, probably, in the 8th century by Vicus Martini’s inhabitants, escaped to their village’s distruction.

One of the main buildings is Our Holy Lady’s church, built on Vespignani’s design in 1866 and that keeps the statue dedicated to Our Lady of the Graces dated 1808, a painting from the 12th-13th century by Salvatore Benedicente, a triad with St. Terence, St. Rocco and St. Sebastian from the 15th-16th century, and a Tabernacle from the year 1400.

In the Romanic church dedicated to St. Francis you can see a marble sepulcher where the Aguillara twins are buried, who died in 1406-1408.

The 16th century Cathedral with a Romanic bell tower is dedicated to St. John and it was rebuilt in the 18th century. Inside a renaissance tabernacle and a wood crucifix from the 16th century are kept.

Just out of the village there’s Our Lady of the Tears’ church, whose front was made by Vignola.

SUTRI

One of the most ancient villages around Viterbo, with historic witnesses of the Etruscan and of the Medieval ages. By the inhabited center there’s one of the most ancient and charming monuments in Latium, dated back to the 1st century B. C. :

The Amphitheatre, totally dug in tuff.

The Cathedral, built on the remains of a Roman one, was consecrated by Innocenzo the 3rd in 1207. Inside there are precious works: a board of roman school from the 13th century, the floor of the nave as a mosaic, the crypt from the Lombard age and a wonderful wood statue of St. Sweet by Bernini’s school. One of the most typical corners of the village is the Old Door, built with big blocks of peperino, tuff and travertine in the 14th-15th century.

Villa Staderini was built by the Marquis Muti-Papazzurri in the 18th century and it’s surrounded by a wonderful Italian-style garden with many archeological finds.

By the Villa rise the remains of Charlemagne’s Castle, so called for a supposed stay of the famous king in this place, but actually datable back to the 13th century.

Wholly dug in tuff, Our Lady of the Birth’s church is considered by some an Etruscan grave, by other a Christian construction.

The originality of the structure with a nave and two aisles and the frescoes recalling legends bound to St. Michael’s Sanctuary in Gargano, make of it a compulsory stop for tourists and students.

Owned by the Order of Knights Templars, Our Lady of the Temple’s church rises where hospitals and churches helped the pilgrims going to Rome. In September there the patronal holidays with the Bean Feast (See the Feast section).

MONTEROSI

Small town divided into two quarters: Roman Course and Aldobrandino Village.

St. Cross’ church is in the central square of the inhabited center and it’s baroque-style of the 16th century with a ribbed bell tower.

In the main street there’s the Bishop’s Palace.

Close to town there’s Monterosi lake, small basin famous for the meeting, in 1155, between Federico Barbarossa and Adrian the 4th.